How to Drain Gas From a Snow Blower

Maintenance Guide

How to Drain Gas From a Snow Blower

By Wildwood Repair Team Reviewed by a certified technician Updated August 10, 2026 6 min read
Quick Answer
To drain a snow blower for storage, siphon or pump the fuel out of the tank into an approved container, then run the engine until it stalls so the carburetor empties too. Draining the tank alone is not enough, because fuel left in the carburetor is what varnishes over the summer and clogs the machine. The alternative to draining is adding fuel stabilizer and running it through, but a full drain leaves nothing behind to go stale.

The single biggest reason snow blowers refuse to start each winter is old fuel that turned to varnish over the summer and clogged the carburetor. Draining the gas before you put the machine away for the season is the cheapest insurance against that repair. The key detail most owners miss is that emptying the tank is only half the job, since the fuel sitting in the carburetor bowl is what actually causes the trouble. This guide covers both halves, so the machine starts clean next winter.

Drain or Stabilize: Two Valid Paths

There are two accepted ways to store a snow blower. The first is to drain the fuel completely so nothing is left to go stale. The second is to fill the tank, add a fuel stabilizer, and run the engine a few minutes so treated fuel reaches the carburetor. Both work. Draining is the surer bet for machines that sit many months, because even stabilized fuel eventually degrades. If you drain, this guide is for you. If your carburetor is already gummed from last year, our carburetor cleaning guide covers the fix.

How to Drain the Fuel Step by Step

Why the Carburetor Matters More Than the Tank

Fuel in a sealed tank goes stale slowly, but fuel in the tiny passages of a carburetor bowl evaporates and leaves behind a sticky varnish that blocks the jets. That is the clog that stops a snow blower from starting in November. Running the engine dry after emptying the tank clears those passages, which is why the two steps go together. Skipping the run dry step is the most common draining mistake.

What to Do With the Old Fuel

If the gas is only a few weeks old and looks and smells fine, you can pour it into a car and use it up. If it is from last season, smells sour or looks dark, treat it as bad fuel and dispose of it at a hazardous waste site. Our guide on how to tell if gas has gone bad covers the signs. Never store degraded fuel to reuse next year.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How do you drain gas from a snow blower?
Siphon or pump the fuel from the tank into an approved container, then run the engine until it stalls so the carburetor empties too. Draining the tank alone leaves fuel in the carburetor that will varnish.
Should I drain the gas from my snow blower for summer?
Yes, unless you add a fuel stabilizer and run it through. Draining prevents the old fuel from turning to varnish and clogging the carburetor over the off season.
Is it enough to just empty the tank?
No. The fuel left in the carburetor bowl is what causes summer varnish. After emptying the tank, run the engine until it stalls to clear the carburetor.
Can I leave gas in a snow blower over summer?
Only if it is treated with fuel stabilizer and run through the engine. Untreated fuel left all summer is the top cause of a snow blower that will not start the next winter.
What can I do with the old snow blower gas?
If it is fresh and clean, use it in a car. If it is from last season or smells sour, dispose of it at a hazardous waste facility rather than reusing it.
Do I need to drain the carburetor bowl too?
If the carburetor has a bowl drain screw, opening it briefly after running the engine dry removes the last of the fuel and gives the best protection against varnish.
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About the Author

Wildwood Repair Team

The Wildwood Small Engine Repair team has completed more than 10,000 mobile repairs on lawn mowers, snow blowers, generators and outdoor power equipment since 2019. Every guide is written from real bench experience and reviewed by a certified small engine technician before publishing.