Seasonal Guide

How to Winterize a Lawn Mower

By Wildwood Repair Team Reviewed by a certified technician Updated July 9, 2026 9 min read
Quick Answer
To winterize a lawn mower, stabilize or drain the fuel, change the oil, remove and inspect the spark plug, clean the deck, sharpen the blade, and store it somewhere dry. Handling the fuel is the most important step, because stale gas gumming the carburetor is the number one reason a mower will not start in spring. The whole job takes under an hour and saves a repair bill.

Spending forty five minutes in the fall is the difference between a mower that fires on the first pull in spring and one that sits dead with a gummed carburetor. Knowing how to winterize a lawn mower comes down to a short checklist: fuel, oil, spark plug, blade, and a dry place to store it. Below we walk through each step in order so your mower is protected all winter and ready the moment the grass starts growing again.

Step 1: Handle the Fuel

This is the single most important step. Old ethanol fuel breaks down over winter into a varnish that clogs the carburetor, which is why so many mowers will not start in spring. You have two good options.

Stabilize it. Add fuel stabilizer to a full tank and run the engine for five minutes so treated fuel reaches the carburetor. A full tank limits the condensation that causes rust.

Or drain it. Run the mower until it stalls from lack of fuel, then drain the carburetor bowl so no fuel is left to gum up.

Pro tip: Ethanol-free fuel stores far better than regular gas. Running it for the last tank of the season is cheap insurance against a spring no start.

Step 2: Change the Oil

Used oil holds acids and moisture that slowly corrode the engine while it sits all winter. Draining the old oil and refilling with fresh oil before storage protects the internals during the months of inactivity.

Warm the engine first so the oil drains cleanly, then refill to the full mark with the grade your manual recommends, usually SAE 30 or 10W-30. This is the perfect time to do it since the engine is coming out of service anyway.

Step 3: Service the Spark Plug

1. Disconnect and remove

Pull the spark plug wire, then unscrew the spark plug.

2. Inspect it

A plug that is black, worn, or fouled is due for replacement, which is cheap and easy.

3. Fog the cylinder

Optionally add a small spoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder and pull the cord slowly a few times to coat it against rust, then refit the plug.

Step 4: Clean the Deck and Sharpen the Blade

Grass packed under the deck traps moisture and causes rust over a long winter. Disconnect the spark plug wire, tip the mower air filter side up, and scrape the underside clean.

Winter is also the ideal time to sharpen or replace the blade while the mower is already tipped and the plug wire is off, so it is ready to cut cleanly in spring.

Step 5: Battery and Storage

On a riding mower, remove or disconnect the battery and keep it on a trickle charger in a cool dry place so it does not drain or freeze. Then store the mower somewhere dry, ideally a garage or shed, away from any furnace or water heater.

Safety: Store the mower away from any pilot light or open flame, since fuel vapors can travel to an ignition source. A dry, ventilated space is best.

A Quick Winterize Checklist

StepWhy it matters
Stabilize or drain fuelPrevents a gummed carburetor, the top no start cause
Change the oilRemoves acids and moisture that corrode the engine
Service the spark plugEnsures an easy spring start
Clean deck, sharpen bladeStops rust and readies a clean cut
Battery and dry storageProtects the battery and prevents rust

If your mower was put away without winterizing last year and now will not start, that is almost always a gummed carburetor. Wildwood can clean the fuel system at your home and have it running again quickly.

Rather Have a Real Technician Handle It?

A Wildwood technician comes to your driveway, diagnoses the problem, and fixes it on the spot, usually in about an hour. More than 10,000 repairs completed since 2019, with flat rates quoted before we arrive so there are no surprises.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need to winterize my lawn mower?
If you skip it, the most likely result is a gummed carburetor and a mower that will not start in spring. Winterizing takes under an hour and prevents that repair, so yes, it is well worth the time for any mower that sits through winter.
Should I drain the gas or add stabilizer?
Either works. Draining the fuel and emptying the carburetor bowl leaves nothing to gum up. Adding stabilizer to a full tank and running it through keeps the fuel fresh and limits condensation. Choose whichever suits you, just do not leave untreated gas sitting all winter.
Do I need to change the oil before winter?
It is strongly recommended. Used oil holds acids and moisture that corrode the engine while it sits. Changing it before storage means clean oil protects the internals all winter and the mower is ready to run in spring.
Should I remove the battery from my riding mower?
Yes. Disconnect or remove the battery and keep it on a trickle charger in a cool dry place. A battery left connected slowly drains and can freeze and crack in cold weather, leaving you with a dead battery in spring.
When should I winterize my mower?
Do it after the last mow of the season, before the first hard freeze. That way the fresh oil and stabilized fuel are in place before the cold sets in and the mower goes into storage clean and protected.
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About the Author

Wildwood Repair Team

The Wildwood Small Engine Repair team has completed more than 10,000 mobile repairs on lawn mowers, snow blowers, generators and outdoor power equipment since 2019. Every guide is written from real bench experience and reviewed by a certified small engine technician before publishing.